Setting the Stage: Ambience and Concept

Entrepôt presents a compelling fusion of history and modernity within The Robertson House. The restaurant’s name itself—referencing Singapore’s role as an entrepôt port from 1819 to 1941—signals the conceptual foundation of the dining experience. The British colonial-inspired design, executed through a monochromatic black and white palette complemented by rattan and dark wood furnishings, creates an atmosphere that bridges past and present. This aesthetic choice is more than decorative; it establishes a narrative framework that informs the entire culinary approach, where Anglo-Asian fusion isn’t just a menu description but a philosophical stance on cultural synthesis.

The emphasis on communal dining aligns perfectly with Chinese New Year traditions, where meals serve as social glue binding families and friends. Chef Nixon Low’s menu for the Year of the Dragon demonstrates sophisticated understanding of this cultural imperative while pushing boundaries through contemporary interpretation.

Dish-by-Dish Analysis

“Chasing the Dragon” Yusheng: Theatre Meets Tradition

The opening act of this culinary journey immediately establishes Entrepôt’s approach—respectful of tradition yet unafraid of innovation. The yusheng, that quintessential CNY dish symbolizing prosperity and abundance, receives a multi-layered reimagining that engages all senses before the first bite.

The Theatrical Element: The incorporation of incense-infused dry ice isn’t mere gimmickry. It serves multiple purposes—creating visual drama, cleansing the palate metaphorically through aromatic smoke, and establishing a ceremonial atmosphere that elevates the dining experience beyond mere consumption. The accompanying shot from Chandu speakeasy (with non-alcoholic option) adds an interactive dimension, turning diners into active participants rather than passive consumers.

Ingredient Innovation: The substitution of Robertson Chai-cured salmon for conventional smoked or raw salmon represents a calculated risk that pays dividends. Curing with chai introduces warm, aromatic spice notes that complement rather than overpower the fish’s natural richness. The reviewer’s observation that it boasted “much more flavour” than standard varieties validates this choice. The curing process likely incorporates traditional chai spices—cardamom, cinnamon, ginger, cloves—creating flavor complexity that bridges Eastern and Western palates.

Textural Composition: The inclusion of candied pecans and popping candy demonstrates sophisticated attention to textural layering. Candied pecans provide substantial crunch and nutty depth, their sweetness balanced by the plum dressing’s tartness. The popping candy, which might initially seem whimsical, actually serves a purpose beyond playfulness—it activates the palate, creating micro-sensations that heighten awareness of subsequent flavors. This technique, borrowed from molecular gastronomy, shows culinary ambition.

The Dragon Fruit Base: Using dragon fruit as the foundation is both practical and symbolic. Its vibrant color evokes the Year of the Dragon, while its mild sweetness and high water content provide refreshing contrast to richer ingredients. The plum dressing ties everything together with its sweet-tart profile, traditional in Chinese cuisine yet applied here with restraint.

Overall Assessment: This dish succeeds because it honors yusheng’s symbolic importance while creating a distinct identity. The generous portioning for six people suggests confidence in the recipe’s appeal and understanding of CNY’s communal nature. It’s a strong opening that sets high expectations.

Seasonal Fish with Superior Black Truffle Soy Sauce: Elevation Through Restraint

This dish exemplifies the principle that simplicity in presentation can mask complexity in execution. The choice to serve fish early, departing from traditional sequencing where fish arrives mid-to-late meal, suggests deliberate pacing strategy—following the heavier yusheng with something delicate prevents palate fatigue.

The Fish: The emphasis on locally sourced, steamed fish reflects both sustainability consciousness and respect for ingredient quality. Steaming, that most unforgiving of cooking techniques, exposes any flaw in freshness or handling. That the reviewer praised the meat as “soft and delicate” indicates precise execution—likely steamed to an internal temperature just reaching doneness, preserving moisture while achieving silky texture.

The Black Truffle Soy Sauce Innovation: This represents the dish’s conceptual heart. Traditional CNY fish preparations typically employ light soy-based sauces that whisper rather than shout, allowing the fish’s natural sweetness to dominate. By incorporating black truffle, Chef Low creates what the reviewer describes as a “more intense flavour profile” that makes the dish feel “decadent.”

This is culinary code-switching—taking a Cantonese preparation technique and infusing it with a luxury ingredient associated with European haute cuisine. Black truffle’s earthy, slightly garlicky umami compounds (specifically bis-methylthio-methane) complement soy sauce’s glutamate-rich profile, creating layered umami that amplifies the fish’s natural savoriness. The result maintains Chinese technique while delivering French luxury expectations.

Textural Accents: Fried small shrimp and crispy leaves serve as textural counterpoints to the fish’s softness and sauce’s viscosity. These elements likely also provide pops of saltiness and slight bitterness (from leaves) that prevent the dish from becoming one-dimensional. The reviewer’s recommendation to “scoop the fish, sauce, and leaves together in one bite” suggests these components were designed for integration rather than separation.

Critical Perspective: While successful, one might question whether the truffle’s intensity, however pleasurable, somewhat overshadows the fish itself. There’s a fine line between elevation and domination. However, in a CNY context where abundance and luxury signaling are culturally valued, this boldness seems appropriate.

Dr Robertson’s “Pencai”: Luxury as Narrative

Pencai (盆菜, “basin dish”) carries deep cultural significance as a symbol of abundance, community, and hierarchical harmony—with premium ingredients layered atop more humble ones. Entrepôt’s version embraces this tradition while pushing luxury boundaries.

Ingredient Analysis:

Proteins: The 5-spiced kakuni braised pork belly and charcoal smoked duck provide contrasting pork and poultry expressions. Kakuni, that Japanese interpretation of Chinese red-braised pork, brings sweet-savory depth from prolonged braising in soy, sake, mirin, and sugar. The five-spice addition (star anise, cloves, cinnamon, Sichuan pepper, fennel) creates aromatic complexity. Charcoal smoking the duck adds another flavor dimension—woodsy, slightly acrid notes that cut through the dish’s richness.

Seafood Suite: The selection reads like a luxury ingredients checklist. Dried scallops (conpoy) are prized for concentrated oceanic sweetness achieved through drying—rehydrated in braising, they release glutamates that enrich the entire dish. Tiger prawns provide sweetness and firm bite. Fish maw (swim bladder) offers collagen-rich, slippery texture prized in Chinese cuisine for both mouthfeel and perceived health benefits. The 6-head abalone—meaning six pieces per catty (approximately 600g), indicating substantial size—represents the luxury apex. The reviewer’s note about “good balance of chew” suggests proper preparation, as overcooked abalone becomes rubber while undercooked is unpleasantly tough.

Vegetables and Fungi: Braised mushrooms, chestnuts, lotus root, napa cabbage, and mountain yam aren’t mere filler. Each brings distinct texture and subtle flavor—mushrooms provide umami, chestnuts add sweetness and starch, lotus root contributes crunch, cabbage offers gentle sweetness and liquid absorption, mountain yam brings viscosity from natural mucilage. Together, they create textural diversity that prevents protein fatigue.

The Black Truffle Sauce Strategy: Again deploying black truffle, this time in a braising sauce, Chef Low creates continuity with the fish course while demonstrating the ingredient’s versatility. In pencai’s concentrated braising liquid, truffle compounds intensify, creating what the reviewer describes as bringing “that extra bit of fanciness” to every component.

Critical Observation: The reviewer’s comment about shaved black truffle being “more decoration than helpful addition” with “no real flavour” is telling. Fresh black truffle loses aromatic volatility when exposed to heat and air—its compounds are extremely delicate. This suggests the shaved truffle was either added too early or sat too long before service, allowing aroma dissipation. It’s a minor execution flaw in an otherwise excellent dish, highlighting the challenge of working with delicate luxury ingredients in volume service.

Cultural Context: Pencai can indeed be “hit or miss”—when poorly executed, it becomes a jumbled mess of overcooked proteins swimming in murky liquid. Entrepôt’s version succeeds by maintaining ingredient integrity, ensuring each component retains distinct character while contributing to the whole.

Steamed Lotus Leaf Rice with Chinese Sausage: Strategic Simplicity

Following the opulent pencai with lotus leaf rice might seem anticlimactic, but it demonstrates sophisticated menu pacing. This is palate management through strategic simplicity.

The Base: Lotus leaf rice (糯米雞) traditionally belongs to dim sum canon—sticky rice parcels steamed in lotus leaves that impart subtle floral, slightly grassy notes to the rice. Its “economical” positioning outside fine dining contexts makes its inclusion here noteworthy. Chef Low reclaims it by elevation rather than replacement.

Enhancements: The additions of crispy shallots and crispy puff rice address lotus leaf rice’s typical textural monotony. Crispy shallots provide aromatic crunch and slight bitterness from caramelization. Puff rice (likely created by deep-frying rice then drying) adds lighter, airier crunch that doesn’t compete with shallots but offers textural variation.

Lapcheong Integration: Chinese sausage brings its characteristic sweet-savory profile from sugar curing and slight fermentation. Its fat content enriches the rice, while its firmness provides chew contrast. Diced spring onions contribute fresh, sharp notes that cut through richness.

The Torching Technique: Finishing with torch application adds Maillard reaction products—those toasted, slightly bitter, caramelized flavors that create complexity. It’s a technique borrowed from Japanese cuisine (think aburi sushi) that shows technical crossover.

Functional Role: The reviewer’s observation that this serves as a “lighter dish that helps reset our stomachs” after heavy pencai reveals understanding of gustatory fatigue. Despite being carbohydrate-dense, the rice’s textural lightness (especially from puff rice) and the freshness from spring onions provide psychological and physical break before dessert.

Elderflower and Osmanthus Melon Sago: Deconstructed Refreshment

CNY desserts typically lean heavily sweet—tangyuan (glutinous rice balls), nian gao (sticky rice cake), or rich coconut-based concoctions. Entrepôt’s choice signals restraint and health consciousness.

The Visual Departure: Serving a clear liquid instead of the expected creamy white immediately signals difference. Traditional melon sago uses evaporated milk or coconut milk for richness and opacity. Chef Low’s elimination of dairy could address multiple concerns—lactose intolerance prevalence in Asian populations, desire for lighter finish, or modern preferences for less heavy desserts.

Flavor Components: Elderflower brings delicate floral notes with slight grape and lychee undertones. Osmanthus (桂花), beloved in Chinese desserts, contributes apricot-like fragrance and gentle sweetness. Together with melon (likely honeydew for its mild sweetness) and sago pearls (tapioca), the dessert becomes a textural and aromatic experience rather than purely flavor-driven.

The Jar Presentation: Serving in a “charming jar” rather than traditional bowl creates visual appeal and suggests portability or preservation—though more likely it’s about aesthetic and portion control. The clear liquid showcases the ingredients suspended within, making the dish photogenic (important in Instagram age) while maintaining elegance.

Assessment: The reviewer’s description—”indulgingly sweet and refreshing”—suggests successful balance. Sweetness without cream’s masking effect must be carefully calibrated. The refreshment quality makes it ideal for CNY dining, where heavy, rich meals often leave diners uncomfortably full. This dessert cleanses rather than satiates.

Beverage Integration: Dr Robertson’s Gin

The exclusive gin collaboration with Tanglin Gin demonstrates beverage program thoughtfulness. Infusing with spices creates historical narrative continuity—British colonial Singapore’s spice trade connections—while the floral notes complement the menu’s Asian ingredients.

At S$18 per cocktail or S$200 per bottle, pricing positions it as premium accompaniment rather than casual drink. The gin and tonic preparation with East Imperial Royal Botanic Tonic Water and mint suggests classic serve with quality mixers, letting the gin’s character shine.

Overall Menu Architecture

Chef Nixon Low’s CNY menu demonstrates several sophisticated strategies:

Progressive Intensity: Opening with theatrical yusheng, moving to delicate fish, building to rich pencai, cooling with rice, finishing with refreshing dessert shows classical menu pacing adapted for CNY context.

Textural Variation: Each course introduces new textural elements—crunch, softness, chewiness, creaminess, slipperiness—preventing monotony.

Flavor Bridging: Black truffle appears in multiple courses, creating continuity while showcasing versatility. This ingredient threading gives the menu cohesion.

Cultural Code-Switching: Anglo-Asian fusion isn’t superficial mixing but thoughtful integration—Chinese techniques with European luxury ingredients, traditional formats with contemporary twists.

Symbolism Retention: Despite innovation, core CNY symbolism remains—fish for abundance, yusheng for prosperity, pencai for community, lotus for purity.

Value Proposition Analysis

At S$398 for the Harmonious Set serving 4-6 people, cost per person ranges from S$66-S$100. In Singapore’s fine dining landscape, particularly for CNY when restaurants typically charge premiums, this positioning is mid-to-upper tier rather than stratospheric.

Considering ingredient quality (6-head abalone, black truffle, premium seafood), execution complexity, theatrical presentations, and the Robertson Quay setting, value proposition appears reasonable. Comparable CNY sets at similar establishments often exceed S$100 per person without matching ingredient luxury.

Recommendations and Considerations

Who Should Dine Here:

• Diners seeking contemporary interpretation of CNY dining rather than traditional presentations
• Groups comfortable with fusion approaches and adventurous enough to appreciate innovations like chai-cured salmon and truffle-enhanced classics
• Those valuing experience and theatricality alongside food quality
• Guests interested in Anglo-Asian culinary dialogue

Who Might Prefer Alternatives:

• Traditionalists seeking orthodox Cantonese CNY preparations
• Budget-conscious diners for whom S$400+ for 4-6 people represents stretch spending
• Those preferring purely Chinese or purely Western dining without fusion elements

Final Verdict

Entrepôt’s Lunar New Year menu succeeds as contemporary CNY dining because it respects tradition’s spirit while fearlessly exploring modern possibilities. Chef Nixon Low demonstrates technical competence across multiple cuisines—Chinese braising, Japanese curing, European sauce work, molecular gastronomy touches—while maintaining conceptual coherence.

The menu’s greatest strength lies in its confidence. Rather than timidly tweaking traditional dishes, it boldly reimagines them while maintaining their symbolic and communal functions. The use of luxury ingredients like black truffle and premium abalone isn’t gratuitous but purposeful, elevating without overwhelming.

Minor execution details—like the flavorless shaved truffle garnish—suggest areas for refinement, but these are marginal compared to the overall achievement. The pacing, portion sizing, and textural orchestration reveal kitchen sophistication.

For Singapore diners seeking CNY meals that honor tradition while embracing innovation, that combine Instagram-worthy presentations with genuine culinary substance, and that understand reunion dining’s social centrality, Entrepôt presents a compelling option. It’s Chinese New Year dining for the contemporary palate—rooted in history, executed in the present, looking toward the future.

Rating: 4.5/5 Stars

Excellence in concept, execution, and innovation, with minor room for refinement in luxury ingredient handling.