Overview
Ce Soir is a modern Asian fine-dining destination that transforms Chef Seth Lai’s Malaysian kampong childhood memories into an intimate 8-course culinary narrative. Located atop a colonial black-and-white bungalow along Portsdown Road, this MICHELIN Guide Young Chef Award 2024 winner creates an experience where heritage meets refined Japanese sensibilities.
Price: $228++ per person (8-course dinner)
Reservations: Required (reservations-only)
Menu Rotation: Seasonal changes every 3-4 months
Ambience & Atmosphere
Setting
The restaurant occupies the upper floor of a colonial black-and-white bungalow, offering an intimate and secluded dining environment that feels deliberately removed from the urban bustle. This architectural choice enhances the sense of stepping into a personal memory—quiet, contemplative, and steeped in nostalgia.
Dining Room Character
- Intimate scale: Small dining room with limited seating
- Lean operation: Small team providing personalized service
- Tone: Refined yet relaxed; sophisticated without pretension
- Service style: Warm, genuine, and thoughtfully paced with engaging storytelling elements
Unique Touch
Each diner receives a charming jotter booklet with illustrations and written narratives for every course, transforming the meal into an interactive journey through Chef Seth’s memories. This creates a playful guessing game where diners try to identify the inspiration behind each dish before the story unfolds.
Menu Structure & Philosophy
8-Course Progression
1. Welcome Beverage: Sparkling Tea
2. Snacks (3): Obsiblue Prawn / Ankimo / Wagyu
3. Cold Course: Kanpachi Sashimi
4. Soup: Wintermelon
5. Fish: Sawara (Spanish Mackerel)
6. Signature Bread: Seaweed Bread + Lobster
7. Meat: Magret Duck (with optional Wagyu upgrade +$38)
8. Final Savory: South African Abalone with 5-Grain Rice
9. Desserts (3): Nashi Pear / Black Sesame & Maltose / Kaya-Misu
Culinary Philosophy
Chef Seth Lai’s approach bridges multiple culinary traditions:
- Foundation: Asian flavors and ingredients
- Technique: Japanese precision and restraint
- Soul: Malaysian kampong nostalgia
- Presentation: Modern fine-dining aesthetics
The menu reads like a culinary autobiography, with each dish representing specific childhood memories—gathering eggs, seaside markets, and home-cooked family meals from Teluk Intan, Malaysia.
Dish-by-Dish Analysis
Sparkling Tea (Welcome)
Style: Aperitif, palate preparation
Character: Champagne-like with delicate tea aromatics and gentle effervescence
Sweetness Level: Restrained
Function: Sets a refined, elegant tone for the meal
Snacks Trio
1. Obsiblue Prawn, Kinkan, Shiso
Rating: 3.8/5
Texture: Delicate prawn with citrus burst
Flavor Profile: Bright, herbaceous, seafood-forward
Balance: Light and refreshing opener
2. Ankimo, Mandarin, Hazelnut ⭐
Rating: 4.2/5 (Standout of the trio)
Core Ingredient: Monkfish liver (Ankimo)
Texture: Rich, creamy liver beneath delicate orange jelly
Flavor Strategy: Mandarin acidity and hazelnut earthiness balance the richness
Technical Note: Clever layering that reveals hidden luxury
3. Wagyu, Green Mango, Kaffir Lime
Rating: 4/5
Texture: Tender, rich beef
Balance Mechanism: Green mango acidity cuts through fat
Aromatic Element: Kaffir lime adds Southeast Asian fragrance
Effect: Leaves diners wanting more—controlled portion mastery
Kanpachi (Greater Amberjack)
Rating: 4/5
Style: Elevated sashimi with local inspiration
Technique: Raw fish preparation with creative accompaniments
Components:
- Protein: Kanpachi (Greater Amberjack)
- Crunch: Rose apple
- Citrus: Finger lime zest
- Umami: Sesame
- Cultural Bridge: Prawn paste (evoking local rojak)
Analysis: This dish exemplifies Chef Seth’s approach—taking premium Japanese ingredients and reinterpreting them through a Singaporean/Malaysian lens. The prawn paste connection to rojak is subtle enough to feel refined while remaining recognizable to those familiar with local flavors.
Wintermelon Soup ⭐⭐
Rating: 5/5 (Rare perfect score—”Truly unforgettable”)
Style: Long-simmered comfort soup with extraordinary depth
Cooking Process:
- Pork Belly Preparation: Smoked 8-9 times, 30 minutes per session
- Simmering: 12-hour broth with peanuts, octopus, Zuwaigani (snow crab)
- Result: Deeply layered, intensely smoky, collagen-rich
Sensory Profile:
- Aroma: Mesmerizing smokiness that announces the dish
- Texture: Rich, viscous from long extraction
- Flavor Depth: Multiple layers that linger
- Comfort Factor: Deeply satisfying and nostalgic
Technical Mastery: This dish showcases time-honored techniques and patience. The multiple smoking sessions create complexity impossible to achieve through shortcuts. The 12-hour simmer extracts maximum flavor and creates a broth with profound umami.
Sawara (Spanish Mackerel)
Rating: 4/5
Cooking Method: Grilled (though texture suggests poaching influence)
Primary Protein:
- Texture: Unexpectedly delicate, almost poached despite grilling
- Innovation: New textural experience with familiar fish
- Assessment: Divisive technique that challenges expectations
Surprise Star Component: Hakusai (Napa Cabbage) Preparation: Grilled and layered
Sauce: Mushroom XO sauce with mussels
Topping: Fried beancurd skin
Finishing: Tamarind sauce for gentle tartness
Verdict: The vegetable side outshone the main protein—a testament to technique and flavor building
Signature Seaweed Bread ⭐
Rating: 4.5/5
Demand Level: So good, diners requested seconds
Recipe Components:
- Three types of seaweed
- Star anise glaze
- Sea salt finish
Texture Profile:
- Interior: Pillowy-soft, cloud-like crumb
- Exterior: Light, delicate crust
- Optimal Enjoyment: Serve immediately while hot
Pairing: Designed to accompany the lobster course
Lobster (Bread Course Companion)
Rating: 4.5/5
Style: Sauce-driven seafood that demands bread accompaniment
Flavor Composition:
- Tang Oh (fermented fish)
- Chickpea miso
- Roasted kelp
- Yellow wine
Character: Unexpected yet harmonious—a sauce that’s difficult to describe but impossible to forget. The combination of fermented, roasted, and vinous elements creates umami depth that begs to be mopped up with bread.
Serving Strategy: The bread and lobster work as a unified course, each incomplete without the other.
Magret Duck
Rating: 3.8/5 (Only dish that didn’t fully resonate)
Optional Upgrade: +$38 for Kagoshima A4 Wagyu
Cooking: Tender, well-marinated
Challenge: Slight gaminess that may not suit all palates
Sauce: Angelica root sauce lacking stronger punch
Timing Note: Served when diners were approximately 70% full
Analysis: This was the sole misstep in an otherwise exceptional progression. The gamey quality and subdued sauce failed to make the same impact as earlier courses. The Wagyu upgrade option suggests the chef is aware this component may not please everyone.
South African Abalone & 5-Grain Rice ⭐⭐
Rating: 5/5 (Showstopper finale)
Style: Elevated comfort food with luxurious protein
Abalone Preparation:
- Cooking Time: 5 hours slow-cooking before grilling
- Texture Achievement: Beautifully tender
- Technique: Low-and-slow followed by high-heat finishing
5-Grain “Fried Porridge” Components:
- Five different grains
- Sakura Ebi (dried shrimp)
- Kyoto-style cucumbers (crunch element)
- Charred, crispy edges (claypot rice effect)
Service Drama: Tableside plating with visual and aromatic impact. Chef Seth admitted he salivates preparing it himself—a genuine endorsement.
Comparison: Described as similar to claypot rice, this dish bridges Chinese comfort food with Japanese refinement. The charred aroma and texture contrast create an addictive final savory course.
Desserts Trilogy
1. Nashi Pear (Cheng Tng Interpretation)
Rating: 3.8/5
Inspiration: Traditional Chinese dessert soup Cheng Tng
Components:
- Osmanthus biscuit (base)
- Parfait structure
- Nashi Pear
- Red date ice cream
- Candied cashew (texture)
- Calamansi-brandy sauce (tang)
- Matcha “leaf” (visual flourish)
Character: Modern, deconstructed approach to a nostalgic dessert. The calamansi-brandy sauce provides sophisticated acidity.
2. Black Sesame & Maltose (Heong Peah Tribute)
Rating: 4/5
Inspiration: Malaysian flaky pastry snack
Texture Play:
- Flaky, crunchy pastry exterior
- Sticky maltose center
- Black sesame depth
Achievement: Captures the signature contrast of the original snack while elevating it to fine-dining status. Black sesame adds sophistication without overwhelming the nostalgic maltose sweetness.
3. Kaya-Misu ⭐
Rating: 4.8/5 (Near-perfect finale)
Concept: Southeast Asian-Italian fusion
Construction:
- Choux pastry base
- Homemade pale-green kaya (coconut-egg jam)
- Mascarpone cheese
- Cocoa tuile (top)
- Marsala wine (tiramisu tradition)
Innovation: The surprising marriage of kaya and Marsala wine creates unexpected harmony. The pale-green kaya provides visual distinction while the traditional Italian elements respect tiramisu’s heritage.
Effect: Comforting yet elegant—the perfect emotional note to end the journey.
Textural Journey Through the Menu
Textural Progression Analysis
Opening (Snacks):
Crispy → Creamy → Fatty
Creates immediate sensory variety
Middle Courses:
Silky (Kanpachi) → Viscous (Wintermelon) → Delicate (Sawara) → Pillowy (Bread) → Tender (Lobster)
Finale:
Tender-Crispy (Abalone + Rice) → Crunchy-Sticky (Desserts)
Overall Strategy: The menu builds from light and delicate to rich and comforting, with strategic textural contrasts preventing palate fatigue.
Cooking Techniques Showcased
Traditional Techniques
- Long Smoking (8-9 sessions × 30 min for pork belly)
- Extended Simmering (12 hours for wintermelon soup)
- Slow-Cooking (5 hours for abalone)
- Claypot Rice Method (charred rice technique)
Modern Techniques
- Precision Sashimi Work (Kanpachi preparation)
- Controlled Grilling (Sawara’s unusual texture)
- Layered Construction (Ankimo hidden beneath jelly)
- Emulsion Building (Lobster sauce complexity)
Pastry Skills
- Bread Fermentation (Seaweed bread)
- Choux Pastry (Kaya-Misu base)
- Flaky Pastry (Heong Peah interpretation)
Flavor Profiles & Cultural Bridges
Southeast Asian Elements
- Prawn paste (rojak connection)
- Tang Oh (fermented fish)
- Kaffir lime
- Green mango
- Kaya (coconut jam)
- Calamansi
Japanese Influences
- Kanpachi, Sawara (premium fish)
- Ankimo (monkfish liver)
- Sakura Ebi
- Kyoto-style cucumber
- Miso applications
Chinese Traditions
- Wintermelon soup
- Claypot rice technique
- Cheng Tng inspiration
- Five-grain porridge
Western Techniques
- Fine-dining presentation
- Tiramisu structure
- Controlled plating
- Course progression logic
Service & Experience Features
Interactive Elements
- Jotter Booklet: Illustrated narratives for each course
- Guessing Game: Diners identify inspirations before reveals
- Tableside Service: Dramatic rice plating
- Chef Stories: Personal anecdotes shared throughout
Service Philosophy
- Warm: Genuine hospitality without stuffiness
- Paced: Thoughtfully timed courses
- Engaging: Storytelling enhances each dish
- Personal: Despite lean team, service feels attentive
Unique Aspect
The meal becomes a journey through memory rather than just a progression of courses. Each dish is a page in Chef Seth’s culinary journal, creating emotional connection beyond taste.
Delivery & Logistics
Dining Format
Reservations Only: No walk-ins accepted
Advance Booking: Recommended due to intimate size
Operating Hours
- Wednesday: 6:30 PM – 11:00 PM (Dinner only)
- Thursday-Sunday: 12:00 PM – 3:00 PM (Lunch) | 6:30 PM – 11:00 PM (Dinner)
- Closed: Monday & Tuesday
Location Access
Address: 5B Portsdown Road, Unit 01-03, Singapore 139311
Nearest MRT: One-North (Circle Line)
Public Transport Route:
- Exit One-North MRT at Exit B
- Cross to bus stop opposite station (Stop ID 18151)
- Take Bus 191
- Alight after 3 stops
- Walk to destination Total Journey: ~8 minutes from MRT
Contact
- Phone: +65 9177 9993
- Platforms: Facebook, Instagram, Website available
Takeaway/Delivery
Note: The review does not mention takeaway or delivery options. Given the nature of fine-dining with tableside service, intricate plating, and storytelling elements, this experience is designed exclusively for dine-in. The intimate setting and personalized service are integral to the concept, making delivery impractical and contrary to the restaurant’s philosophy.
Value Analysis
Pricing Context
$228++ per person for 8 courses translates to approximately $260 after taxes, or roughly $32.50 per course.
What You’re Paying For
- MICHELIN-recognized Chef (Young Chef Award 2024)
- Premium Ingredients (Obsiblue prawn, Wagyu, abalone, lobster, snow crab)
- Time-Intensive Techniques (12-hour soups, 5-hour proteins, multiple smoking sessions)
- Intimate Setting (Colonial bungalow, limited seating)
- Storytelling Experience (Illustrated booklet, personal narratives)
- Seasonal Menu Rotation (New experiences every 3-4 months)
Comparative Value
For Singapore’s fine-dining scene, $228++ positions Ce Soir in the mid-to-upper tier, comparable to other MICHELIN-recognized establishments but below multi-starred venues that can exceed $400-500 per person.
Strengths & Standouts
Exceptional Elements ⭐⭐
- Wintermelon Soup (5/5) – Unforgettable depth and technique
- South African Abalone & Rice (5/5) – Perfect textural and flavor harmony
- Kaya-Misu (4.8/5) – Innovative cultural fusion
- Signature Seaweed Bread (4.5/5) – Requested for seconds
- Lobster Sauce (4.5/5) – Impossible to forget
Strong Performers
- Ankimo snack (clever hiding technique)
- Kanpachi (thoughtful local reinterpretation)
- Black Sesame dessert (nostalgic tribute)
Unique Selling Points
- Personal Narrative: Every dish tells a story
- Cultural Authenticity: Genuine Malaysian-Singaporean roots
- Technical Excellence: Time-honored methods meet modern precision
- Interactive Experience: Guessing game adds playfulness
- Intimate Scale: Feels exclusive without being exclusionary
Areas for Consideration
Missteps
- Magret Duck (3.8/5) – Gamey quality and weak sauce
- Sawara Texture – Divisive approach that may confuse expectations
Potential Concerns
- Capacity: Small dining room may make reservations difficult
- Pacing: By duck course, diners were 70% full (could adjust portions)
- Transportation: Requires bus connection from MRT (not walkable)
- Menu Philosophy: Story-driven approach may not suit all dining preferences
Who Should Dine Here
Ideal Diner Profile
- Food enthusiasts seeking narrative-driven experiences
- MICHELIN chasers exploring Young Chef Award winners
- Asian cuisine lovers appreciating modern reinterpretations
- Couples seeking intimate, romantic settings
- Culinary students studying technique and storytelling
Less Suited For
- Walk-in diners (reservations required)
- Large groups (intimate space)
- Those seeking traditional presentations without modern twists
- Diners uncomfortable with gamey proteins (unless opting for Wagyu upgrade)
- Quick meals (expect 2.5-3 hour experience)
Final Verdict
Overall Rating: 4.4/5 (Based on weighted dish scores)
Summary
Ce Soir succeeds brilliantly at what it sets out to do: transform personal memory into shared experience through refined, thoughtful cooking. Chef Seth Lai demonstrates both technical mastery (evident in the soup and abalone) and creative courage (kaya-tiramisu fusion). The occasional misstep (duck) is forgivable within a menu that mostly soars.
Key Takeaway
This is fine dining that engages the mind and heart as much as the palate. The storytelling approach creates emotional resonance rare in restaurants at any price point. You leave not just satisfied, but connected to a chef’s journey and inspired by his translation of memory into taste.
Recommendation
Highly Recommended for diners seeking more than just a meal—those who appreciate when a restaurant becomes an experience, when courses become chapters, and when nostalgia meets innovation on the plate.
Best Dishes Not to Miss
- Wintermelon Soup (order extra if possible)
- South African Abalone & 5-Grain Rice
- Kaya-Misu
- Signature Seaweed Bread (ask for seconds)
- Ankimo snack
Insider Tip: Request the Kagoshima A4 Wagyu upgrade (+$38) instead of the duck if you’re sensitive to gamey flavors.
Booking Information
Advance Booking: Essential (reservations-only policy)
Best Time to Visit: Thursday-Sunday for lunch option flexibility
Menu Changes: Every 3-4 months (return for new narratives)
Special Occasions: Intimate setting perfect for anniversaries, proposals
Contact to Reserve: +65 9177 9993