A Culinary Journey Through Hong Kong’s Dai Pai Dong Heritage
Restaurant Review
Nestled in the old Singapore Badminton Hall at 102 Guillemard Road, Hey Kee emerges as a nostalgic tribute to Hong Kong’s vanishing dai pai dong culture. This collaborative venture between Keith Kang of Yang Ming Seafood fame and Reuben Chua, the visionary behind Yun Nans, opened its doors on January 5, 2024, bringing the spirit of 1980s Hong Kong street food to Singapore’s modern dining scene.
The term dai pai dong translates literally to license stall, a reference to the oversized license plates these establishments once displayed. These open-air food stalls proliferated across Hong Kong following World War II, serving affordable, quickly-prepared wok dishes to hungry workers and families. While authentic dai pai dongs have become increasingly rare in modern Hong Kong, Hey Kee resurrects this cultural institution with remarkable authenticity, minus the questionable hygiene and actual street grime.
Ambience & Atmosphere
Visual Design
The visual experience at Hey Kee is an exercise in controlled nostalgia. Bright kelly-green round tables—the kind that would have graced countless Hong Kong street corners in the 1980s—anchor the dining space. These are paired with classic red and silver chairs that gleam with newness, creating an interesting temporal tension. The furniture looks as if it’s been plucked from a time capsule; everything is pristine, lacking the patina of age that would complete the illusion.
The piece de rwsistance is undoubtedly the neon-bright wall feature, a vivid homage to Hong Kong’s iconic illuminated signage. Though the actual neon signs of Mong Kok and Tsim Sha Tsui have largely disappeared, victims of modernization and safety regulations, Hey Kee]s interpretation burns with such intensity that diners might momentarily forget they are in Singapore rather than along Temple Street. The LED display in the private room furthers this immersion, projecting panoramic Hong Kong street views that transform the space into a portal to another city.
Spatial Experience
The restaurant’s location, an eight-minute walk from Mountbatten MRT or eleven minutes from Aljunied, positions it slightly off Singapore’s well-trodden tourist paths. This geographical remove adds to the sense of discovery, as if stumbling upon an authentic hole-in-the-wall in a side street rather than dining in a carefully orchestrated experience.
For those seeking maximum authenticity, the al fresco seating area beckons. Here, the furniture shifts to folding plastic chairs in the same red and green color scheme—the kind that can be stacked and stored quickly, essential for street vendors who once had to pack up at a moment’s notice. At full capacity, the restaurant achieves that signature Hong Kong density, where personal space becomes a luxury and the energy of neighboring tables bleeds into your own dining experience.
The private room accommodates twenty guests with a minimum spend of SGD 1,500, featuring a full KTV system because no Hong Kong-style dining experience is complete without the possibility of belting out Cantopop classics after the meal. The room’s panoramic LED street view creates an enclosed world, though one reviewer aptly noted it lacks only a mahjong table to achieve perfect authenticity.
Signature Dishes: In-Depth Analysis
Temple Street Crispy Roast Chicken
Price: SGD 22.80 (half) / SGD 39.80 (whole)
The Technique:
This dish represents the pinnacle of Hey Kee’s culinary ambition. The preparation begins with French roosters, selected specifically for their superior meat quality and texture. These birds undergo a meticulous six-hour air-drying process in a refrigerated environment, a crucial step that removes surface moisture and allows the skin to tighten. This extended drying period creates the foundation for achieving that coveted paper-thin, shattering crispness.
The birds are then subjected to a triple marinade process using milk, an unusual choice that serves multiple purposes. Milk is lactic acid acts as a gentle tenderizer, while its fat content helps conduct heat evenly during cooking. The proteins in milk also contribute to browning reactions during frying. Finally, each order is fried to specification, ensuring maximum freshness and allowing the kitchen to control doneness precisely.
Textural Analysis:
The skin achieves a remarkable paper-thin consistency with an audible shatter when bitten. Beneath this crisp exterior lie translucent layers of golden-yellow fat that provide lubrication and richness. The meat itself presents as exceptionally smooth and juicy, with a bite that suggests careful cooking, firm enough to indicate doneness but yielding enough to remain tender. The texture bears comparison to salt-baked chicken, though achieved through an entirely different method.
Flavor Profile:
The seasoning leans decidedly toward the saline end of the spectrum, which some palates may find excessive. However, this assertive salting serves a purpose: it creates a flavor intensity that cuts through the richness of the chicken fat and provides a clear, definitive taste that doesn’t require elaborate saucing. The flavor profile suggests similarities to salt-baked chicken, with deeply penetrating seasoning that flavors the meat throughout rather than merely coating the surface.
The fried garlic crumbs, while present, play a surprisingly minor role in the overall flavor composition. They add textural interest and a subtle aromatic note but don’t dominate the experience as one might expect from a garnish so prominently featured.
Visual Characteristics:
The chicken presents with a deep amber to golden-brown exterior, evidence of proper Maillard reactions and caramelization. When broken apart, the meat reveals a pale ivory color with slight translucency near the bone, indicating moist, properly cooked protein. The fat layers show a characteristic yellow hue, suggesting either corn-fed birds or the particular French rooster breed used.
Typhoon Shelter Style Stir Fried Crab
Price: Market pricing (based on selection and weight)
Cultural Context:
The typhoon shelter style represents one of Hong Kong’s most iconic culinary traditions. The dish originated among boat-dwelling families and fishermen who sought refuge in typhoon shelters during storms. These communities developed a cooking style centered on maximum flavor extraction from minimal ingredients; primarily whatever they could catch from the sea, combined with aromatics they could afford in bulk.
Preparation Method:
Hey Kee’s version begins with live seafood selected from prominently displayed tanks;a nod to traditional Hong Kong seafood restaurants where diners choose their own swimming proteins. The kitchen employs massive quantities of minced garlic, which undergoes air-drying on trays before use. This drying process removes excess moisture, allowing the garlic to crisp properly during high-heat wok cooking rather than steaming or becoming soggy.
The aromatics trio of garlic, fermented black beans, and fresh chilies are stir-fried in a screaming-hot wok until fragrant, then the prepared crab pieces are tossed through this aromatic matrix. Scallions finish the dish, adding fresh, sharp notes that cut through the richness.
Textural Composition:
The crab meat itself maintains a satisfying springiness and sweetness, indicating careful cooking that stopped just short of the point where shellfish proteins begin to toughen. The meat pulls cleanly from the shell, a sign of proper timing and heat control. Against this tender protein, the fried garlic provides countless tiny points of crunch, creating a textural interplay that keeps each bite interesting.
The fermented black beans contribute their own distinct texture—soft and slightly yielding, they pop gently between teeth, releasing their pungent, funky flavor. Fresh chilli pieces provide a firmer bite and release heat gradually are chewed.
Flavor Dynamics:
The dish presents layers of flavor that reveal themselves sequentially. Initial contact brings the sharp, almost electric taste of fried garlic intensified beyond its raw state through Maillard reactions that create new flavor compounds. The fermented black beans introduce a deep, funky umami that underlies everything else, while the chilies provide building heat that crescendos gradually rather than striking immediately.
The crab’s natural sweetness plays against these aggressive flavors, creating a balance that prevents the dish from becoming one-dimensional. The key to enjoyment is dragging crab meat through the; mountain of fried garlic; as the review describes it, loading each piece with varying amounts of the aromatic mixture to create custom flavor intensities.
Serving Suggestions:
The dish is optimally enjoyed with plain white rice, which absorbs the flavored oils and provides a neutral backdrop for the intense aromatics. Alternatively, the crispy garlic bits can be spooned over congee, where they create textural contrast against the smooth porridge while gradually softening and releasing their flavor into the liquid.
Steamed Soon Hock with Chopped Yellow Chilli
Price: SGD 9 per 100g (also available with Red Garoupa or Turbot)
Fish Selection:
Soon hock (marble goby) represents a premium choice in Southeast Asian seafood, prized for its sweet, delicate flesh and firm texture that holds up well to steaming. The fish’s relatively low oil content means it won’t overwhelm delicate sauces, making it an ideal canvas for the pickled yellow chilli topping.
Cooking Precision:
The fish demonstrates textbook-perfect steaming technique. The flesh separates into clean, intact flakes that retain moisture, no cottony dryness or waterlogged mushiness that would indicate over or under-cooking. This level of precision requires careful timing based on the fish impact weight and thickness, adjusted for the specific steaming equipment used.
Sauce Composition:
The chopped yellow chillies are generously applied, indicating confidence in the sauce’s balance. These pickled chillies bring a complex flavor profile: fruity notes from the chilli peppers themselves, savoury depth from the pickling brine, and a gentle sweet-sour quality that brightens rather than overwhelms. The heat builds gradually rather than striking immediately, allowing diners to appreciate the other flavors before the capsaicin takes hold.
The sauce quantity proves generous enough to coat the fish thoroughly with plenty left for spooning over rice. This abundance is crucial, as the sauce provides the primary flavoring for what is otherwise simply steamed fish. The liquid consistency allows it to pool in the serving dish, creating a ready reservoir for rice-dunking.
Color and Visual Appeal:
The pickled yellow chillies contribute vibrant golden-yellow hues dotted with flecks of red and green, creating visual interest against the pure white flesh of the steamed fish. The sauce appears slightly translucent with visible chilli pieces suspended throughout, suggesting a rustic, hand-chopped preparation rather than a processed commercial product.
Recipe Recreations
Temple Street& Style Crispy Roast Chicken
Yield: Serves 4-6
Ingredients:
1 whole chicken (1.5-2kg), preferably free-range or premium breed
500ml whole milk
3 tablespoons sea salt
2 tablespoons five-spice powder
1 tablespoon white pepper
2 teaspoons sugar
4 cloves garlic, minced
2-inch piece ginger, minced
Neutral oil for deep frying (approximately 2 liters)
6 cloves garlic, finely minced (for garnish)
Equipment:
Large pot or wok for deep frying
Cooking thermometer
Kitchen string
Wire rack
Baking tray
Instructions:
Day 1 – Preparation Phase (6+ hours before serving):
1. Pat the chicken completely dry inside and out using paper towels. Remove any excess fat from the cavity. Ensure the skin is as dry as possible.
2. In a bowl, combine 2 tablespoons salt, five-spice powder, white pepper, sugar, minced garlic, and ginger. Mix thoroughly to create the first marinade.
3. Rub this spice mixture all over the chicken, inside the cavity and under the skin where possible. Massage it in thoroughly. Place chicken in a large bowl or container.
4. Pour 200ml of milk over the chicken, ensuring it coats the surface. Cover and refrigerate for 2 hours.
5. After 2 hours, drain the milk. Apply the second milk coating using 150ml fresh milk, rubbing it all over the chicken. Return to refrigerator for another 2 hours.
6. Drain the second milk application. Apply the final 150ml milk coating. Refrigerate for a final 2 hours.
7. After the third milk marinade, remove chicken and pat it completely dry again. Use kitchen string to truss the chicken, tying the legs together and tucking the wings.
8. Place chicken on a wire rack set over a baking tray. Position uncovered in the refrigerator for 6 hours or overnight. This air-drying step is crucial for achieving crispy skin. Point a small fan at the chicken if possible to accelerate moisture evaporation.
Day 2 – Cooking Phase:
9. Remove chicken from refrigerator 30 minutes before cooking to bring to room temperature.
10. Heat oil in a large pot or wok to 170°C (340°F). The pot should be deep enough to submerge at least half the chicken.
11. Carefully lower the chicken into the hot oil, breast-side down. Fry for 8-10 minutes, using a ladle to continuously baste the exposed portions with hot oil.
12. Carefully flip the chicken and fry the other side for 8-10 minutes, continuing to baste. The skin should turn deep golden-brown.
13. Increase heat to bring oil to 180-185°C (355-365°F). Fry chicken for an additional 3-4 minutes per side to achieve maximum crispness. The skin should be a rich amber color.
14. Remove chicken and drain on wire rack for 5 minutes. Check internal temperature in the thickest part of the thighs.
15. While chicken rests, quickly fry the minced garlic garnish in a small amount of oil until golden and crispy. Drain on paper towels.
16. Chop the chicken into pieces using a heavy cleaver, cutting through the bones in the traditional Chinese style. Arrange on a platter and scatter fried garlic over the top. Serve immediately.
Chef’s Notes:
The extended air-drying is non-negotiable for achieving paper-thin crispy skin. Do not skip this step.
Milk’s enzymes tenderize the meat while its sugars aid in browning. Whole milk is essential—low-fat will not produce the same results.
Oil temperature control is critical. Too low and the skin becomes greasy; too high and it burns before the meat cooks through.
For reduced saltiness, decrease salt to 2 tablespoons in the initial marinade.
Typhoon Shelter Style Stir-Fried Crab
Yield: Serves 4 as part of a multi-dish meal
Ingredients:
1 live or very fresh mud crab (approximately 1kg)
10-12 cloves garlic, minced (about 60g)
2 tablespoons fermented black beans, rinsed and lightly crushed
3-4 fresh red chillies, sliced diagonally
3 spring onions, cut into 2-inch lengths
150ml neutral oil (for frying garlic)
3 tablespoons Shaoxing wine
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 teaspoon sugar
1/2 teaspoon white pepper
2 tablespoons cornstarch mixed with 3 tablespoons water
Instructions:
Preparing the Crab:
1. If using live crab, place in freezer for 15 minutes to humanely stun it. Clean the crab by lifting the top shell and removing the gills and innards. Rinse thoroughly under cold water.
2. Using a heavy cleaver, chop the crab into manageable pieces: separate the claws, cut the body into quarters. Crack the claw shells lightly with the back of the cleaver to allow flavor penetration.
3. Pat crab pieces dry with paper towels. Dust lightly with cornstarch, shaking off excess.
Preparing the Aromatics:
4. Spread minced garlic in a single layer on a plate. Allow to air-dry for 2-3 hours, or until noticeably drier to the touch. This step prevents soggy garlic during frying.
5. Heat 150ml oil in a wok over medium heat to approximately 140°C (285°F). Add dried garlic and fry slowly, stirring constantly, until golden and crispy (about 5-7 minutes). The garlic should turn a deep blonde color, not brown.
6. Using a fine-mesh strainer, remove garlic and drain on paper towels. Reserve the garlic-infused oil.
Cooking the Dish:
7. Heat a wok over high heat until smoking. Add 3 tablespoons of the reserved garlic oil.
8. Add crab pieces in a single layer. Allow to sear without moving for 1 minute to develop color on the cut surfaces.
9. Stir-fry vigorously for 2-3 minutes until the crab pieces turn bright orange-red.
10. Add fermented black beans and chillies. Stir-fry for 30 seconds until fragrant.
11. Pour in Shaoxing wine around the edges of the wok, allowing it to sizzle and vaporize slightly. Add soy sauce, sugar, and white pepper. Toss to coat.
12. Add half of the fried garlic and the white parts of the spring onions. Stir-fry for 1 minute.
13. Drizzle in the cornstarch slurry while tossing continuously. The sauce should lightly coat the crab pieces without pooling excessively.
14. Add green parts of spring onions, toss once more, and immediately transfer to a serving plate.
15. Pile the remaining fried garlic on top, creating a generous mound. Serve immediately with steamed rice or congee.
Chef’s Notes:
The quantity of garlic may seem excessive, but it’s authentic to the style. Don’t reduce it.
Work quickly once cooking begins. The entire stir-fry process should take no more than 5-6 minutes to prevent overcooking the crab.
This recipe works equally well with prawns, lobster, or mantis shrimp. Adjust cooking times accordingly—prawns need only 3-4 minutes total.
The air-dried garlic technique prevents oil-logged, soggy garlic pieces. This step significantly elevates the final dish.
Additional Signature Dishes
Deep Fried Cuttlefish with Salt and Pepper
Price: SGD 20.80
This dish showcases technical proficiency in handling cephalopods, notoriously temperamental proteins that can turn rubbery with seconds of overcooking. The cuttlefish arrives in substantial, meaty cuts rather than thin strips, demonstrating confidence in cooking precision. Each piece carries an even, thin coating of batter—just enough to provide crunch without obscuring the seafood itself.
The texture hits the optimal middle ground: tender enough to chew easily, with that characteristic slight resistance that identifies properly cooked cuttlefish. The interior remains moist, while the exterior provides satisfying crunch. Most importantly, the pieces avoid greasiness, suggesting proper oil temperature maintenance and effective draining.
Sizzling Kai Lan with Dried Prawns in Claypot
Price: SGD 23.80
The kai lan (Chinese broccoli) preparation diverges from some competitors by offering heartier portions with more minced meat and visibly large dried shrimp pieces. In Hong Kong’s dried seafood markets (海味舖 – hai wai po), size correlates directly with quality and price—larger dried shrimp command premium prices for their more concentrated flavor and better texture.
The claypot presentation serves both functional and theatrical purposes. Clay retains heat exceptionally well, keeping the dish sizzling-hot throughout the meal. The minced meat provides savory depth, while the dried shrimp contribute their distinctive sweet-salty complexity and slightly chewy texture that contrasts with the tender vegetables.
Signature Claypot Seafood Porridge
Price: Market pricing (based on seafood selection)
This dish represents the one slight misstep in the menu. Traditional Cantonese congee (粥 – zhōu) achieves a distinctively smooth, almost creamy consistency through extended cooking that breaks down rice grains into a homogeneous porridge. Hey Kee’s version, while made with chicken stock for depth, trends toward a more watery consistency that resembles local-style porridge rather than authentic juk.
The tiger prawns, while fresh and live when ordered, delivered less impressive texture than expected—lacking the firm snap that characterizes premium prawns. Additionally, the chicken stock’s flavor dominated somewhat, overshadowing the natural sweetness that seafood should contribute to the dish. In authentic preparations, the seafood’s essence should perfume the congee, not compete with other flavors.
Beverages
Hey Kee offers free corkage, a generous policy that encourages diners to bring preferred wines or spirits. For those seeking authentic Hong Kong drinks, the restaurant stocks:
Vitasoy (SGD 3): The authentic glass-bottled variety imported from Hong Kong, not the shelf-stable versions found in many supermarkets. The glass bottle makes a differences something about drinking Vitasoy from glass that enhances the nostalgic experience.
Blue Girl Beer (SGD 8): A Hong Kong brewing institution, this lager pairs well with rich, garlicky dishes and provides refreshing contrast to the salt-forward seasoning prevalent in the menu.
Hong Kong-Style Milk Tea (SGD 3 hot / SGD 3.80 cold): The signature beverage of Hong Kong cha chaan tengs. Hey Kee’s version leans slightly more milky than the classic preparation, which traditionally emphasizes strong black tea with a silky milk finish. While not the definitive version, it represents a respectable attempt at this culturally significant beverage.
Comprehensive Textural Analysis
Texture plays a paramount role in Chinese cuisine, often valued equally with or above flavor. Hey Kee demonstrates sophisticated understanding of textural contrasts and expectations:
Crisp Elements:
The restaurant excels at achieving and maintaining crispness across multiple dishes. The Temple Street Chicken’s skin shatters audibly, while the fried garlic maintains its crunch even when coated in sauce. The deep-fried cuttlefish’s batter stays crisp without becoming greasy. This consistency suggests careful attention to oil temperatures, moisture control during preparation, and timing of service.
Tender Proteins:
The chicken meat beneath its crispy skin achieves remarkable smoothness and moisture retention. The crab maintains its natural springiness without becoming tough. The steamed fish flakes cleanly without falling apart or turning cottony. These results indicate precise cooking temperatures and careful timing.
Vegetable Textures:
The kai lan in the claypot dish retains sufficient structure to provide bite while avoiding the raw, grassy quality of undercooked greens. Spring onions maintain distinct textures between their white and green sections—the whites provide crunch and pungency, while the greens add color and a softer texture.
Contrast and Balance:
The most successful dishes showcase deliberate textural contrasts. The Typhoon Shelter Crab combines crispy fried garlic, tender crab meat, soft fermented black beans, and crunchy chilli pieces. The Temple Street Chicken layers paper-thin crispy skin over smooth meat with soft, unctuous fat. These contrasts prevent textural monotony and create more engaging eating experiences.
Visual Presentation and Color Analysis
Visual appeal extends beyond mere garnishing at Hey Kee, incorporating colors that signal proper cooking technique and quality ingredients:
Golden-Brown Spectrum:
The Temple Street Chicken displays deep amber to golden-brown tones, evidence of successful Maillard reactions where proteins and sugars interact under heat to create both color and flavor. The fried garlic achieves a lighter golden-blonde color, indicating careful frying at controlled temperatures. Too dark and it becomes bitter; too light and it lacks the nutty complexity of properly fried garlic.
Vibrant Reds and Oranges:
The Typhoon Shelter Crab’s bright orange-red shell signals freshness and proper cooking. Fresh crab shells turn vivid orange when cooked; dull or brownish tones suggest older seafood or overcooking. The fresh red chillies contribute bright crimson notes that pop visually against the golden garlic and orange crab.
Green Elements:
The kai lan’s deep jade-green color indicates vegetables that retain their chlorophyll through quick, high-heat cooking. Spring onions contribute both dark green tops and white bases, creating visual interest through tonal variation. The neon green tables add an entirely different dimension. not food-related but culturally significant, evoking specific Hong Kong aesthetics.
Yellow and Gold Accents:
The pickled yellow chillies on the steamed fish create golden-yellow pools with red and green flecks. The chicken fat beneath the crispy skin shows characteristic yellow hues. These warm colors suggest richness and add visual warmth to dishes that might otherwise appear monochromatic.
White and Neutral Tones:
The pure white flesh of the steamed fish provides a neutral canvas that makes the colorful sauce more striking. Similarly, plain white rice serves as both a functional necessity (to balance salt-forward dishes) and a visual palate cleanser between vibrant, richly colored preparations.
Final Assessment
Hey Kee succeeds remarkably in its central mission: recreating the essence of Hong Kong’s disappearing dai pai dong culture within Singapore’s modern dining landscape. The restaurant demonstrates sophisticated technical execution across most dishes, particularly excelling in fried preparations and live seafood handling.
Strengths:
The Temple Street Crispy Roast Chicken stands as a signature achievement, justifying its prominent menu position through meticulous preparation and exceptional results. The Typhoon Shelter Crab delivers authentic flavors with generous portions of premium ingredients. Pricing remains accessible for most dishes, making quality Cantonese cooking available beyond fine dining price points. The ambience successfully evokes nostalgia without descending into kitsch.
Areas for Refinement:
The seasoning skews aggressively salty for some palates, though this reflects authentic Hong Kong home cooking where bold seasoning is standard. The seafood porridge requires adjustment to achieve the characteristic smooth consistency of traditional Cantonese juk. The pristine newness of the space, while inevitable for a recent opening, lacks the worn-in character that would complete the time-travel illusion.
Overall Verdict:
For those seeking authentic Hong Kong flavors or nostalgic connections to the city’s street food heritage, Hey Kee delivers a compelling experience. The restaurant merits particularly strong recommendations for their signature chicken, any typhoon shelter preparation, and the steamed fish with yellow chilli. With its combination of technical skill, cultural authenticity, and atmospheric design, Hey Kee establishes itself as a worthy addition to Singapore’s Cantonese dining scene.
Practical Information
Location: 102 Guillemard Road, #01-01, Singapore 399719
Hours: Daily 11:30am-3:00pm, 5:30pm-10:30pm
Contact: +65 6514 1588
Accessibility: 8 minutes walk from Mountbatten MRT, 11 minutes from Aljunied MRT
Dietary Information: Not halal-certified
Reservations: Recommended, especially for weekend dinners and the private KTV room
Payment: Cash and cards accepted
Special Features: Free corkage, KTV private room (20 pax, SGD 1,500 minimum spend), live seafood selection, outdoor seating
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