The stall’s most compelling offering. Prawns, clams, and baby octopus arrive atop a bed of orangey rice whose aroma — a confluence of seafood umami, white wine acidity, and parmesan — announces itself before the first forkful.

The broth is genuinely accomplished: sweet, savoury, and layered in a way that belies the hawker context. Seafood ingredients are fresh and generously portioned. Italian purists may object to the cheese-and-seafood pairing, but the flavour dividend is undeniable.

The dish that prompted the visit, and the one that disappoints most. The interior filling of chicken ham and cheese was excessively dry, and the breaded crust lacked the yielding crunch the dish demands.

Accompaniments — mashed potato, sweet corn, mushroom sauce — are well-executed and provide relief, but they cannot rehabilitate the main event. The textural shortcomings here are fundamental, not incidental.

The sleeper hit. Where the cordon bleu overreaches, the chicken chop delivers with quiet competence: well-grilled meat, black pepper sauce, coleslaw, sweet corn, and crinkle-cut fries in harmonious proportion.

No complaints. A reminder that classical execution of a simpler dish often yields more satisfaction than an ambitious one poorly realised. The safe order — and the one most likely to bring you back.