Restaurant Overview
Location: House of Tan Yeok Nee, 101 Penang Road #02-01, Singapore 238466
Cuisine: Contemporary Innovative (Japanese-French-Southeast Asian Fusion)
Price Range: $$$$ (Fine Dining)
Seating Capacity: 36 guests
Chef: Shusuke Kubota (Chef Shu), 36, from Nagano, Japan
The Historic Setting
Loca Niru marks a significant milestone in Singapore’s culinary and heritage landscape. For the first time in 140 years, the House of Tan Yeok Nee—a gazetted national monument built in 1885—opens its doors to diners. This Teochew mansion is the last surviving grand residence from that era, making it an extraordinary backdrop for a dining experience.
The building’s transformation from private mansion to cultural destination represents a thoughtful approach to heritage conservation. Under the ownership of the Karim Group, the property has been meticulously restored while preserving its historical integrity.
Ambience & Interior Design
Design Philosophy: Kotan
Loca Niru’s interior design embraces “Kotan,” a Japanese concept that celebrates simplicity and refined subtlety. This philosophy manifests throughout the space in several ways:
Architectural Heritage:
- Original wooden truss ceilings remain intact, showcasing 19th-century Teochew craftsmanship
- Preserved Teochew carvings visible throughout the dining spaces
- Heritage details like old patinas contrast beautifully with modern interventions
- Natural wood and brass elements create warmth and elegance
Dining Spaces:
- Counter Seating (12 guests): Offers front-row views of the kitchen action and direct interaction with Chef Shu and his team
- Main Dining Hall (12 guests): The heart of the restaurant, surrounded by historic architecture
- Two Private Dining Rooms (6 guests each): Intimate spaces perfect for special occasions or business dinners
Atmosphere: The restaurant name derives from two Zen idioms about a white horse stepping into white reeds, symbolizing balance and coexistence. This philosophy permeates the space—Japanese artworks complement rather than compete with the Teochew architecture, creating a harmonious dialogue between cultures.
The open kitchen layout encourages engagement between diners and chefs. Service staff are trained to share anecdotes about both the historic mansion and the stories behind each dish, adding layers of narrative to the dining experience.
Overall Feel: Intimate, contemplative, and refined. The space whispers rather than shouts, allowing guests to focus on the food, conversation, and the subtle beauty of their surroundings.
The Culinary Concept
Chef Shusuke Kubota’s Approach
Chef Shu describes his cuisine as “Contemporary Innovative,” which in practice means:
Japanese Sensibilities: Respect for ingredients, seasonality, and the principle of “less is more”
French Technique: Classical cooking methods that elevate ingredients without overwhelming them
Southeast Asian Soul: Local produce and flavor profiles that ground the cuisine in its geographic location
This isn’t fusion for fusion’s sake—it’s a thoughtful integration that reflects Singapore’s multicultural identity and Chef Shu’s own culinary journey across Japanese, French, and Southeast Asian kitchens.
Sourcing Philosophy
Chef Shu works directly with:
- Livestock farmers for premium meats
- Fishermen for the freshest seafood
- Growers for seasonal vegetables
This farm-to-table approach ensures ingredient quality while supporting sustainable practices. The “less is more” philosophy means each ingredient is allowed to shine rather than being masked by complex preparations.
The Menu
Eight-Course Tasting Menu ($298++ per person)
Loca Niru offers a single eight-course tasting menu that progresses gradually, designed to engage diners both emotionally and sensorially. While the specific courses may change with seasons, the menu structure follows traditional Japanese kaiseki principles of progression.
Signature Dishes Analysis
1. Hassun (Appetizer Course)
Concept: Hassun is a traditional Japanese kaiseki course that presents seasonal delicacies in small portions, typically served on a wooden tray.
Chef Shu’s Interpretation: Likely features a curated selection of small bites that showcase both Japanese and Southeast Asian seasonal ingredients. This course sets the tone for the meal, introducing the diner to the chef’s philosophy.
What to Expect:
- Multiple small preparations showcasing different textures and flavors
- Seasonal vegetables, seafood, or proteins
- A balance of temperatures (some items may be served cold, others warm)
- Visual presentation that evokes natural landscapes
2. Oyasai (Steamed Dumpling)
The Dish: A steamed dumpling filled with Malaysian vegetables
Cultural Fusion:
- Japanese Element: The delicate dumpling wrapper and steaming technique
- Southeast Asian Element: Malaysian vegetables bring local terroir to the dish
- Technique: Likely uses a translucent wrapper that showcases the colorful vegetable filling
Why It Works: This dish exemplifies Chef Shu’s approach—taking a familiar format (Asian dumplings) and elevating it with premium ingredients and precise technique. The choice of Malaysian vegetables grounds the dish in its geographic location while the Japanese preparation method ensures refinement.
Flavor Profile: Expect clean, vegetal flavors with possible umami depth from mushrooms or fermented elements. The texture contrast between the silky wrapper and the vegetable filling would be key.
3. Isaki (Pan-Seared Japanese Grunt Fish with Nyonya Beurre Blanc)
The Protein: Japanese grunt fish (Isaki), a premium white fish known for its delicate, sweet flesh and fine texture
The Technique:
- Pan-Searing: Creates a crispy skin while keeping the flesh moist and tender
- Nyonya Beurre Blanc: A brilliant fusion of French and Peranakan cuisines
Why This Dish Is Exceptional:
The beurre blanc is where Chef Shu’s creativity shines. Traditional French beurre blanc is an emulsified butter sauce made with white wine and shallots. By adding Nyonya (Peranakan) elements, Chef Shu might incorporate:
- Galangal or turmeric for aromatic complexity
- Lime leaves or lemongrass for citrus notes
- Candlenuts for richness
- Belacan (shrimp paste) for umami depth
Flavor Balance: The richness of the butter sauce is cut by acidic and aromatic Peranakan elements, while the delicate fish remains the star. The crispy skin provides textural contrast.
Difficulty Level: High—requires perfect fish cookery and a stable emulsified sauce that balances multiple flavor components.
4. Wagyu Course
The Protein: Premium Japanese wagyu beef, known for its intense marbling and buttery texture
Likely Preparation: Given Chef Shu’s “less is more” philosophy, the wagyu is probably simply prepared to showcase the meat’s natural qualities:
- Seared or grilled over high heat
- Minimal seasoning (salt, perhaps a brush of soy-based glaze)
- Allowed to rest properly before slicing
Accompaniments: May include:
- Seasonal vegetables
- A light sauce that complements rather than competes
- Possibly wasabi or other Japanese condiments
- Textural elements like crispy shallots or garlic chips
Why Wagyu in This Menu: After lighter seafood and vegetable courses, the wagyu provides richness and satisfaction. Its placement in the tasting menu (likely course 6 or 7) follows kaiseki principles of building intensity.
Additional Courses
While not detailed in the article, an eight-course menu would typically include:
Course 1-2: Amuse-bouche or light appetizers (Hassun)
Course 3: Soup or lighter seafood
Course 4: Vegetable-focused dish (Oyasai)
Course 5: Primary fish course (Isaki)
Course 6: Palate cleanser or intermediate course
Course 7: Meat course (Wagyu)
Course 8: Dessert
Beverage Program
Pairing Options ($188++ per person)
Diners can choose between:
- Six glasses of sake from various Japanese regions
- Six glasses of wine from classic and emerging regions
Sake Selection
Highlighted Bottle: Daishinshu Chokarakuchi Junmai Ginjo from Nagano (Chef Shu’s hometown)
- Chokarakuchi means “super dry,” indicating a crisp, clean sake
- Junmai Ginjo indicates premium quality with aromatic complexity
Pricing:
- By the glass: From $32++
- By the bottle: From $128++
The sake list spans various Japanese regions, likely including different styles (dry, fruity, umami-rich) to complement different courses.
Wine Selection
The wine list covers classic regions (Bordeaux, Burgundy, Tuscany) and emerging regions (perhaps Australian, New Zealand, or even Asian wines). Champagne is available by the glass or bottle for celebrations.
Pairing Philosophy: Both sake and wine pairings would be chosen to either complement or contrast with each course, cleansing the palate and enhancing flavors.
Recipe Recreation: Nyonya Beurre Blanc (Inspired by Isaki Dish)
Ingredients
For the Beurre Blanc Base:
- 100ml dry white wine
- 50ml rice wine vinegar
- 2 shallots, finely minced
- 200g cold unsalted butter, cubed
- Salt to taste
For Nyonya Elements:
- 1 stalk lemongrass, white part only, finely minced
- 2 kaffir lime leaves, central vein removed, very finely sliced
- 1 small knob galangal (about 2cm), finely grated
- 1/2 tsp belacan (shrimp paste), toasted
- 1 small red chili, deseeded and minced (optional)
- 1 tbsp fresh lime juice
Cooking Instructions
Step 1: Prepare the Reduction
- In a small saucepan, combine white wine, rice wine vinegar, and minced shallots
- Bring to a simmer over medium heat
- Reduce until you have about 2 tablespoons of liquid (this concentrates flavor)
- Strain out the shallots and return liquid to the pan
Step 2: Create the Nyonya Infusion
- Add the lemongrass, galangal, and half of the lime leaves to the reduction
- Let steep for 2-3 minutes over very low heat
- Add the toasted belacan and stir to dissolve
Step 3: Emulsify the Butter
- Reduce heat to the lowest setting
- Add cold butter cubes one at a time, whisking constantly
- Wait until each cube is almost fully incorporated before adding the next
- The sauce should become thick and creamy, not oily
- If the pan gets too hot, remove from heat briefly while whisking
Step 4: Final Seasoning
- Once all butter is incorporated, strain the sauce through a fine mesh sieve
- Add fresh lime juice and remaining lime leaves
- Season with salt to taste
- Keep warm (not hot) until serving—around 60-65°C (140-150°F)
Serving Temperature: This is crucial—if too hot, the sauce will break; if too cold, it will solidify. Keep in a warm spot or in a bain-marie.
Pairing with Fish
For Pan-Seared Fish:
- Pat fish dry and season with salt
- Heat oil in a pan until shimmering
- Place fish skin-side down, press gently to ensure contact
- Don’t move the fish—let it cook 70-80% through from the bottom
- Flip and cook for 30-60 seconds on the flesh side
- Rest for 1 minute before plating
Plating:
- Pool the Nyonya beurre blanc on the plate
- Place fish skin-side up on top
- Garnish with herbs, crispy shallots, or microgreens
Service Style & Dining Experience
What to Expect
Pacing: The eight-course menu unfolds over approximately 2.5 to 3 hours. This allows for:
- Proper digestion between courses
- Conversation and contemplation
- Kitchen timing to ensure each dish is served at its peak
Service Style:
- Knowledgeable Staff: Trained to discuss both the historic mansion and the culinary stories
- Interactive Elements: Counter seats offer chef interaction
- Storytelling: Each dish comes with context about ingredients, techniques, or inspiration
Dress Code: While not explicitly stated, fine-dining etiquette suggests smart casual to business casual attire is appropriate.
Reservations & Practical Information
Operating Hours:
- Tuesday to Saturday: Dinner only, 6 PM to 11 PM
- Last seating: 8 PM
- Closed: Sunday and Monday
Contact:
- Tel: +65 6592 5815 / +65 8227 4313
- Website: Available (check for online reservations)
Reservation Tips:
- Book well in advance, especially for weekend dinners
- Counter seats offer the most interactive experience
- Private dining rooms require advance booking
- Specify dietary restrictions when booking
Delivery Options
Important Note: Loca Niru does not offer delivery or takeaway services.
As a fine-dining establishment focused on multi-course tasting menus, the experience is designed to be enjoyed in the restaurant for several reasons:
- Temperature Control: Each course requires precise serving temperature
- Timing: The progression of courses is carefully orchestrated
- Presentation: Visual elements are integral to the experience
- Interaction: Service and storytelling are part of the meal
- Quality: Many components (like beurre blanc) don’t travel well
Alternative: If you’re unable to dine in person, consider:
- Checking if they offer gift certificates for future visits
- Exploring other restaurants by Gaia Lifestyle Group that may have more casual formats
- Waiting for a special occasion when you can experience the full restaurant service
Price Analysis & Value Proposition
Cost Breakdown
Per Person (without alcohol): $298++ (approximately $350 after taxes and service charge)
With Beverage Pairing: $486++ (approximately $570 after taxes and service charge)
For Two with Pairings: Approximately $1,140
What You’re Paying For
The Food:
- Premium Japanese ingredients (wagyu, Isaki fish)
- Seasonal Southeast Asian produce
- Eight carefully crafted courses
- Chef Shu’s expertise and creativity
The Experience:
- Access to a 140-year-old national monument
- Intimate 36-seat setting
- Personalized service and storytelling
- Unique cultural fusion
The Value:
- Compared to other fine-dining establishments in Singapore, this is positioned at the high-mid to premium tier
- Similar experiences at restaurants like Burnt Ends, Odette, or Zen would be in a comparable range
- The historic setting adds intangible value
Who Is This For:
- Special occasions (anniversaries, proposals, celebrations)
- Culinary enthusiasts interested in innovative fusion
- History and heritage lovers
- Business dinners requiring impressive venues
Verdict
Strengths
Unique Proposition: The combination of a national monument setting with innovative cuisine creates an experience unavailable elsewhere in Singapore.
Culinary Identity: Chef Shu’s approach to fusion feels authentic rather than gimmicky, rooted in technique and respect for ingredients.
Design & Ambience: The Kotan philosophy creates a refined, contemplative space that enhances rather than distracts from the dining experience.
Cultural Storytelling: The integration of heritage narratives with culinary stories adds depth to the meal.
Potential Considerations
Price Point: At $298++ for the tasting menu, this is a significant investment. However, it’s competitive within Singapore’s fine-dining scene.
Limited Operating Hours: Tuesday-Saturday dinner only may not suit all schedules.
No À La Carte: The set tasting menu format means less flexibility for diners with specific preferences.
Accessibility: Second-floor location in a heritage building may present challenges for those with mobility issues.
Final Rating
Food: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ (5/5) – Innovative, technically accomplished, ingredient-focused
Ambience: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ (5/5) – Exceptional setting with thoughtful design
Service: ⭐⭐⭐⭐ (4/5) – Knowledgeable and attentive (rating based on expected standards for new openings)
Value: ⭐⭐⭐⭐ (4/5) – Fair for the experience provided
Overall: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ (4.5/5)
Who Should Visit
Perfect For:
- Culinary adventurers seeking innovative cuisine
- Heritage and history enthusiasts
- Special occasion celebrants
- Couples seeking a romantic, intimate setting
- Food photographers (the setting and plating are Instagram-worthy)
Perhaps Not Ideal For:
- Those on a tight budget
- Diners preferring traditional, unmodified cuisines
- Large groups (maximum private room seats 6)
- Those seeking casual, quick dining
Comparable Restaurants in Singapore
If you enjoy Loca Niru, consider:
- Odette (French fine dining in a heritage building)
- Burnt Ends (Modern Australian with open kitchen)
- Zen (Nordic-Asian fusion)
- Nouri (Crossroads cooking)
- Meta (Modern European in a heritage shophouse)
Final Thoughts
Loca Niru represents an exciting addition to Singapore’s fine-dining landscape. By opening its doors within the House of Tan Yeok Nee for the first time in 140 years, the restaurant offers something genuinely new—a chance to dine within history while experiencing contemporary culinary innovation.
Chef Shu’s approach to fusion feels considered and authentic, drawing on his own multicultural training while respecting the ingredients and techniques of each tradition. The “less is more” philosophy ensures that despite the complexity of influences, the food remains focused and legible.
For those who appreciate both culinary excellence and cultural heritage, Loca Niru offers a rare opportunity to experience both simultaneously. It’s not just a meal—it’s a conversation between past and present, East and West, tradition and innovation.
Recommendation: Book a counter seat for your first visit to fully appreciate the kitchen’s craftsmanship, and arrive early to explore the historic mansion before your meal begins.
Note: This review is based on opening information. Menu items and preparations may evolve with seasons and as the kitchen refines its offerings.